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Touring around Yangon

I headed straight for the top level, which provides the best views of life in the river, as well as the sunset. Ii ordered some food and a drink, then settled back and enjoyed the river breeze on my face. Ah, fresh air! On one side of the river, colonial buildings, modern high-rises
and golden pagodas emerging from the lush greenery, while the opposite bank was even more green, with small docks and village houses hidden among the palm trees and other vegetation.

ONE Sunday morning not too long ago, I woke to find the early morning sunlight streaming through my bedroom window, inviting me to jump out of bed and rush outdoors. For months I had had the urge to spend a day reacquainting myself with the city in which I lived, and the warm sunlight promised the perfect weather in which to do so. About 30 minutes later, after I had taken a bath, I was at the front door of my apartment tying my walking shoes. Donning my cap and strapping on my backpack, I stepped out into the green city, ready to explore the streets and parks lined with tropical tress, palms, vines and perennial flowers, and ready to taste delicious foods and observe the lifestyles of people in the varied neighbourhoods.

I started by walking from my apartment to Sule Pagoda, a landmark religious monument that serves as the centrepoint of downtown Yangon and the hub around which the city’s hustle and bustle circulates. Since it was early on a Sunday morning, I saw almost no cars on the streets. It was quite a change seeing Sule Pagoda Road as a scene of peace and tranquillity rather than the crowded and hectic place I was used to seeing.

As I approached the octagonal pagoda, a school of pigeons burst into flight, the sound of their flapping wings sounding like an explosion in the quiet of the early hour. It is quite common to see people seeking to gain merit by treating the birds to dried corn before they pay homage inside the pagoda, which is said to enshrine a hair relic of the Buddha. Here, too, the scene was quiet, the watch-repair shops, photo studios and astrologers’ stalls around the stupa not yet open for business.

I crossed the street and passed by the huge City Hall building on the left, designed by Myanmar architect U Tin in the early 20th century during the British colonial period, and Mahabandoola Park on the right. As I continued past the Supreme Court building, which was looking quite Victorian with its British architecture and red-and-yellow paint scheme, the city was starting to come to life, with a growing number of cars on the streets and vendors claiming their spots on the sidewalk. 

I turned left off the main road and walked to one of my favourite teashops, which served a variety of Myanmar breakfasts, including mohinga
and sticky rice. I opted for rice with beans, and a cup of tea. As I sat and ate, more people filtered into the teashop to meet friends and catch up on gossip. Just like in the West, teashops and coffee shops provide a great meeting place for Yangonites. 

After breakfast, I decided to leave the colonial architecture of downtown behind for awhile to take a taxi to Shwedagon Pagoda. Built on top of 326-foot-high Theinguttara Hill, the golden stupa is visible for miles around. I walked up one of the long stairways to the platform, past the flower sellers, astrologers and souvenir vendors. It was still early in the day, so there were fewer people there than during my last visit in the middle of the afternoon. I walked among the local pilgrims, all of whom were dressed modestly in traditional longyis and blouse, as I admired the majestic architecture and paid visits to several of the numerous shrines on the platform.

I departed Shwedagon by way of the east entrance, walking through the market at the bottom of the long stairway on my way to Kandawgyi
(Royal) Lake, where a few people were walking and exercising in the still-cool morning air under the blue sky. I admired the sun sparkling on the water of the lake, strolled in the shade of the many trees in the park, and then returned to the main road to take a taxi back downtown.

By the time I was dropped off on Strand Road near the entrance of Nanthida Jetty, the activities of the day were in full swing. The Yangon River was busy as a beehive, with small boats and larger ferries full of people travelling back and forth across the water, most of whom at this time of day were coming to Yangon from the village of Dalah on the far bank to work or sell produce. Many of these sellers were on their
way to the nearby wet market, where all sorts of vegetables, meats and, of course, fish were for sale. Located in a three-story building, the market is active 24 hours a day with sellers looking to make a profit and buyers aiming to find bargains.

As I emerged from the market, I felt a rumble in my tummy, which could mean only one thing – it was time for lunch! I flagged down my third taxi of the day and dashed to Shwe Myo Daw Indian Restaurant on Sule Pagoda Road near Sule Pagoda. The excellent food, clean environment and attentive service were just what I needed to satisfy my cravings, and when I was finished I was inspired to walk west along Anawrahta Road to pay a visit to Little India near the intersection with Shwebontha Street. The neighbourhood is famous for its raw gem sellers, and it’s not unusual to see people crowded around a popular vendor perusing the stock of precious stones.

Not far from Little India is Yangon’s Chinatown, where the streets are filled with vendors selling everything from toys to traditional medicines.

There are also plenty of goldsmith shops, and anyone who feels even the least bit hungry should be sure not to miss the chance to eat Chinese snacks, such as rice balls or glass noodle soup with fresh vegetables. 

From there I walked up to Bogyoke Aung San Road to the impressive colonial building that houses Bogyoke, or Scott, Market. It can only be described as a paradise for shoppers looking for exotic arts and crafts, clothing, musical instruments, jewellery, gemstones and nearly anything else you can imagine. There are also plenty of stalls selling traditional Myanmar food like fruity motesainpaung (a snack made of rice powder and fruit flavouring) or laphet (pickled tea leaf salad).

Feeling a bit dazed from my shopping foray into Bogyoke Market, I walked to the corner of Bogyoke Aung San and Sule Pagoda roads for a visit to Sakura Tower, where I took the elevator to the 20th floor to relax in Thiripyitsaya Sky Lounge. Sitting in a comfortable chair, coffee in hand, listening to the pleasantly soothing music, I admired one of the best views in the city. From the lounge, it’s possible to see across the river to Dalah and well beyond glittering Shwedagon to the northern outskirts on Yangon. 

While sitting in the lounge, I felt the urge to do some reading, so I paid my bill, took the elevator back down to earth and walked to Pansoden Street, where a number of street vendors sell books and magazines old and new, as well as old coins and banknotes. There were so many books I wanted to buy that I could have easily emptied my pockets of money then and there, but I limited myself to just a few. I was saved from further temptation when I overheard someone ask another person for the time. The response – 5:25pm – reminded me that I had wanted to spend the evening on the Yangon River, taking a dinner cruise on the Myat Thandar ship. 

Newly purchased books in hand, I leapt into a taxi to Sint-O-Tan Jetty, arriving just in time to make the boat before it pulled into the river. I headed straight for the top level, which provides the best views of life in the river, as well as the sunset. I ordered some food and a drink, then settled back and enjoyed the river breeze on my face. Ah, fresh air! On one side of the river, colonial buildings, modern high-rises and
golden pagodas emerging from the lush greenery, while the opposite bank was even more green, with small docks and village houses hidden among the palm trees and other vegetation.

By the time the boat docked 90 minutes later, night had fallen and the stars had come out. After the non-stop activity of the day, I could
hear my comfortable bed calling me to a night of well-deserved rest before I had to return to work the next day.

Author by Theingyi Myo(SweSone Yangon Inflight Magazine)

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