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Thanlyin: Across the river and a world away from Yangon

If you have extra time after a few days of sightseeing in Yangon, it is worth spending a day on the other side of the Bago River exploring the scenic and historic town of Thanlyin. The town is less than a one-hour drive from Yangon across the Thanlyin Bridge but the rural atmosphere makes it seem worlds away from the hustle and bustle of Myanmar’s biggest city. Thanlyin is also home to several interesting landmarks, including pagodas and colonial buildings, and also boasts a fascinating history. In the late 1500s Thanlyin (then called Syriam) was the base of operations for the Portuguese adventurer Philipde Brito. Although he was a trade representative for the coastal Rakhine kingdom centred in Mrauk U far to the northwest, de Brito established himself as a local military commander and set about raiding other kingdoms in the area.

One of his campaigns took him north to Bago for a battle in 1599. The Myanmar army retaliated several years later by attacking Thanlyin. To prepare for battle, de Brito stole a huge bronze bell from Shwedagon Pagoda with the intention of melting it down to make cannon. But the bell fell into the river as de Brito’s men tried to sail it across from Yangon.

The Portuguese trader was captured by Myanmar soldiers in 1613 and sentenced to death by impalement – his
punishment for desecrating Shwedagon. The remains of walls and fortifications dating back to this era can still be seen in secret corners around the town if you know where to look. 

Thanlyin also has a storied past as an important port town, serving as a crossroads of trade between Lower Myanmar and Portuguese, French, Dutch and British traders from the 16th to early 18th centuries. Its significance waned after the city was sacked by the Myanmar king Alaungpaya in 1756 during his campaigns against Mon armies. 

Visitors who venture to Thanlyin today will see a small temple on a hilltop soon after crossing the bridge into town. This is Mwaynun Zedi, dedicated to Princess Shin Mwaynun and her ill-fated romance with Prince Min Nandar from across the river. The Myanmar army retaliated several years later by attacking Thanlyin. To prepare for battle, de Brito stole a huge bronze bell from Shwedagon Pagoda with the intention of melting it down to make cannon. But the bell fell into the river as de Brito’s men tried to sail it across from Yangon.

The Portuguese trader was captured by Myanmar soldiers in 1613 and sentenced to death by impalement – his punishment for desecrating Shwedagon. The remains of walls and fortifications dating back to this era can still be seen in secret corners around the town if you know where to look. 

Thanlyin also has a storied past as an important port town, serving as a crossroads of trade between Lower Myanmar and Portuguese, French, Dutch and British traders from the 16th to early 18th centuries. Its significance waned after the city was sacked by the Myanmar king Alaungpaya in 1756 during his campaigns against Mon armies.

Visitors who venture to Thanlyintoday will see a small temple on a hilltop soon after crossing the bridge into town. This is Mwaynun Zedi, dedicated to Princess Shin Mwaynun and her ill-fated romance with Prince Min Nandar from across the river. The story is so sad that local lovers refuse to visit the pagoda together, convinced that the grief from years ago will doom their own relationship.

One of the best ways to see Thanlyin is by hiring a horse cart. Decorated in simple and traditional ways, the horse carts will give you an authentic local experience and allow you to see the sights at a leisurely pace. Through the open window of the cart you will be able to see the lush, green scenery and the locals enjoying their rural lifestyles, with adults passing leisure time at roadside teashops and children playing traditional games. If you get hungry during your tour you can stop and munch on popular fried vegetable snacks – such as gourds, onion and peas – for sale at small roadside stands under thatched roofs.

One of the major landmarks in the area, and visible even from Yangon, is the huge golden Kyaik Khauk Pagoda, which rises from a small hill on the right side of the road as you head away from the bridge. If you visit in January or February you might be lucky enough to witness the pagoda’s annual weeklong festival, famous for its marionette shows. Near the pagoda are the tombs of the famous Myanmar poets Nat Shin Naung and Padethayaza, with their poetry and brief histories posted on signboards in front of the mausoleum.

Another local religious festival is held early each year at the Darga Mosque, where locals say a Muslim saint is interred. Some believers hold small cradles made of paper or cloth against the tomb of the saint and wish for children. Also in the area are the ruins of a 100-year-old Catholic church, now roofless and overgrown with vegetation, and sporting a tomb of its
own in the centre.

About 12 kilometres down the road from Thanlyin is the town of Kyauktan, which has another interesting sight: the Ye Le Pagoda, built on an island in the middle of a muddy river. The only way to get there is by motorised boat and many local pilgrims bring lunchboxes with them to enjoy a snack at the pagoda. Ye Le Pagoda was said to have been built by King Zeyasana, the seventh king of the Pada Dynasty, in the third century BC. Initially it was only about 3.4 metres high but has
since been expanded. The pagoda offers an impressive collection of paintings, sculptures and other fine displays of Myanmar artwork and craftsmanship.

Visitors should be sure not to miss the opportunity to buy some popcorn snacks from local vendors and feed them to the schools of giant catfish that live in the river around the pagoda. The fish will swim to the surface to wait for the food and might even circle around your boat on the way to and from the island. You’ll be amazed at the size of the catfish, some growing to nearly one metre in length.

On the way back from the mid-river pagoda you can enjoy the sunset while sipping palm juice at one of the stalls along the road back to Thanlyin. There are a number of smaller pagodas along the way, awaiting visitors who are in no hurry to end their day by rushing back home.

Author by Hnin (SweSone Yangon Inflight Magazine)

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